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Waiting For Swell

During the 5months I spent travelling I probably surfed the most that I ever have. I only had a handful of sessions in Australia and none in Fiji and California, but during my time in Hawaii and Costa Rica I surfed practically everyday. Sometimes upto 3 times per day depending on the swell and how tired I was, something I’ve never had the privilege to do before.

So you can probably imagine how much the lack of surf back home is getting to me. Yorkshire does have some pretty spectacular breaks, the problem is they don’t work much in the summer so there isn’t much chance to get in some good surf from May through to around September time.

Even a trip down south to the more dependable coastline of Cornwall and England’s self-titled “surf city” of Newquay didn’t yield good results. A couple of sessions in weak slop that never got above 2ft was the reward for a 600mile round trip.

I’ve been back for just over 4 months now and in that time I’ve been in the water 4times, depressing really. And out of those 4 sessions only one provided a challenge, Cayton Bay was offering some nice, if a little short, wedge type waves at about 3ft, sometimes 4ft, that were breaking quite heavy for summer, shame it only lasted for less than an hour.

South Bay, Scarborough on a small but clean swell.

Surfing with friends just about makes small days tolerable.

Hopefully September will change all this, traditionally a good time for swell, the water is still warm (by local standards anyway) and I have some time off work.

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