World Wide Waves

I was fortunate to spend 5months travelling the world chasing waves and in the process experienced the best surf of my life. This post focuses on my favourite break in each country I surfed in.

Australia: Tea Tree Bay, Noosa

This break is a practically perfect right point break about 10minutes walk from the centre of Noosa. I made a bit of a mistake by paddling out from the beach, in hindsight it would of been much easier to jump in from the rocks. Once I made it to the take off spot I waited around a long time for my wave to come through as it’s a pretty competitive lineup. Once I paddled in it was a pretty special wave, peeling perfectly and giving me my longest ride to date.

Eric and myself after surfing the point.

Hawaii: Freddyland, North Shore

During my time in Hawaii I surfed at several different spots and pretty much loved them all. They all taught me different things but I think surfing Freddyland improved my surfing the most. It’s a pretty mellow break by North Shore standards but compared to waves back home it was still powerful. A big crowd wasn’t a massive factor here due to it’s distance from the spectacles that are Waimea Bay & Banzai Pipeline, meaning more waves for me.

My favourite experience at this spot was getting called into a wave by a local, something I really didn’t expect after hearing so many tales of fights in the lineup. This guy seemed genuinely stoked for me to get the wave making it all the more sweet.

Enjoying the benefits of a quiet lineup.

Costa Rica: Pavones

Costa Rica was my favourite country on this trip. It had tropical warm water, lots of sun, friendly locals and some pretty awesome surf spots. Oh and not to mention some great travellers who I met too.

I surfed a lot of different breaks down the west coast of the country, especially in the area around Tamarindo, which is a good place to base yourself to maximise surfing and party time.

However my favourite break was the glorious point break know as Pavones. On it’s day it offers rides of upto half a mile and it’s location keeps it fairly secluded, not many people make the drive down the dirt roads, especially in the rainy season.

Surfing as the sunsets, doesn’t get much better.

Panama: Wizard Beach, Bocas Del Toro

I headed into Panama for a couple of days and managed to snag a quick surf at a really secluded beach break. Me and a few friends organised a boat to take us there and scored some small, but empty surf. Warm water, sun out and just you and a friend in the lineup, can’t really beat that.

Enjoying empty waves in Panama.

I feel very¬†privileged to have been able to travel and surf perfect waves, enjoying the tropical waters and in some cases empty lineups. Hopefully it won’t be long until my next adventure, as much as I love the waves in the UK I much prefer surfing in boardies than a wetsuit.

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