Back at the Bay

Today I finally made it back out into the surf at Cayton Bay. After deciding it would be worth going last night I was up early to load the car and pick up Mike and Henry then drive there.

When we got there snow was falling, it was freezing and there were only 2 people out, both surfers. Still we decided we’ve come all this way and there are waves pumping so lets get in there! Cue a trip to the shop to rent gloves and hoods (and finally buy a 5mm wettie for me) due to the 5degree water temperature.

The walk down was a chilly one with only 5mm of neoprene seperating us from the elements. Once at the sea a quick warm up was needed to avoid any cramps etc. Thankfully the beach was almost deserted now so no-one saw how stupid we looked.

I can honestly say walking in there wasn’t too bad. At first! My feet were freezing for the first 5mins but after that I started to warm up and really enjoy the session. The waves were good, magic seaweed said 4ft, the surf shop said 2ft and clean but I think both were wrong. The waves were really messy, breaking unevenly and not coming in regular sets. However they were slightly over 4ft and really strong, this made for some fast rides and quick drops down if you could hang on that is. Still it was my first session in over 4 months so I was enjoying it!

After a while the waves were getting bigger and I was paddling out with Mike next to me when a rogue one formed, it was too near breaking to consider going over or duck diving so I turned and began paddling. The wave picked me up and slammed me down hard, making my board shoot out from below me (thank god for leashes!). I ended up going under and the wave hit my head with such a force it almost ripped my hood clean off, meaning the water covered my head. I pulled it off to re-adjust it when another wave crashed over me, I thought my head was going to implode with the numbness.

Mike wiped out on the same wave, it knocked him off his board and he crashed down the face of the wave. It was a pretty bad wipeout judging by how shaken up he was afterwards, it really seemed to knock a lot out of him.

Once I’d sat in the shallows for 5mins to regain my ability to move and think I paddled out again. The waves were a little calmer now and I caught a few good ones with highlight of my session being the 360 spin I completed and carried on. Now all I have to do is get it sorted so I can nail it 90% of the time at least.

Once the cold started to set in we headed back upto the car to get changed into warmish clothes and whilst stood there absolutely freezing cold I wondered why myself and Mike and Henry were there and it dawned on me – when your out there nothing else really matters apart from catching the wave, riding it and making sure you don’t wipeout. It requires lots of concentration, you forget about anything else thats been bothering you (especially the University work that needs doing…..). Also the fact that for maybe 30minutes there was just the 3 of us at Cayton Bay, no-one in the sea, no-one on the beach, no-one within sight, it really was surreal being there when it was that quiet.

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2 Responses

  1. Proper decent blog that john, i proper wanna go again but college is jst in the way. We should defiently try filey or whitby sometime( probs summer) . Also ur wetsuit is motherfucking bang tidy, should be modelled on page 3….

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